Pressure

Well, there we were, six early-morning hopefuls. The swell wasn't great, the temperature freezing. Who was going to crack first? (It's always better if someone else is out there, it's much easier to judge the size and quality of the waves if someone is riding them.)

Ah well, I was determined to surf this morning, so under the watchful gaze of fellow surfers, I put on the wetsuit (brrr), got the board, and wondered off down to the water. This time, however, as I swam out, I was intensely aware of being watched. I'd have to watch my form very carefully. No more taking breaks between sets on the way out. I'd have to purposefully gather speed and dive under the waves, briskly paddling all the time. Once out I'd have to pick my waves well and catch them first time.

An odd experience at 9 a.m. on wintry Sunday morning. I got out past the break remarkably swiftly and caught some fine waves. 10 minutes later there were 5 other surfers in the water.