Sunday 4th of July

An inauspicious start! Despite putting in the hard work on Saturday (I looked after the kids *all* day), Sunday didn't turn out like it was supposed to. The surf report made grandiose claims of epic conditions, but I got nothing. I know Steens doesn't work in swell greater than about five foot (this was probably closer to ten), but I drove around and did the "should I or shouldn't I" thing at about three different spots. The swell was just too local, I guess, with waves coming thick and fast. That's just not fun.

Also, I should mention that it was something of a "comeback surf" - I've just recovered from a cold, and was really hoping for something a little less hectic. There were plenty of guys trying their luck in Big Bay, but it was breaking all over the place, and looked horrible.



Although it's hard to tell from this small picture, take it from me, there wasn't a soul in the water at Derdesteen.