I've persuaded a few friends of mine to join me in shark territory to learn this thing called 'bodyboarding'. C is from Pretoria, so its been something of a culture shock for him. Unfortunately he got a new girlfriend at about the same time, so he (gasp) has on occasion chosen her over surfing (gasp).
J is an old buddy with a bizarre tolerance for cold water. If you see someone on a shortie wetsuit (springsuit) out in the water just after a 5 day southeaster (brr), then it'll be him.
How well I remember the pain of fighting big waves that seem to push you back further every time. How well I remember how you always seem to miss the lulls and hit set after set after set, leaving you shattered and requiring a half hour rest should you actually make it.
There's no real shortcuts to this surfing business. Sure, a bodyboard is an easy introduction in the sense that you can be catching waves and having fun pretty much immediately, but gaining paddling fitness, reading waves, timing sets vs lulls and finding rips all takes time.
When C and J look longingly at the surfboards that seem to glide effortlessly through the water, and wish they could swap boards, I have to laugh. They don't seem to believe me that paddling a surfboard is hard, probably harder even than a bodyboard. You may be a bit more hydrodynamic on a surfboard, but you ain't got flippers! Its technique and fitness, nothing more.
Picture below is J and Chris at Derdesteen, in a not-at-all-photoshopped image.